Perfect imperfection

Leek tart recipe

This year is really racing by, isn’t it? I can’t quite believe that we are in August already. It could be that I’ve been distracted by making the move back to Wales to live. It means that my life for the time being is a series of “Which box did I put that in?” and “Oh, that’s in storage”. But, it also means that I am once again making do with limited kitchen kit, contending with a new oven and hob, and basically wearing the same three sets of clothes until I can unpack into my wardrobes. Thank goodness for the warm weather, as shorts and t-shirt have been my uniform for the past two months. It might not be the perfect set up right now, but it’s giving me a challenge. It’s perfectly imperfect.

This idea came up recently when I was invited onto the British Food History Podcast hosted by Dr Neil Buttery. The topic of conversation between us and Scottish food historian Peter Gilchrist was griddle and bakestone cookery. Naturally, the subject of Welsh cakes came up, but also pikelets – they have Welsh origin – and bara planc or bakestone bread. For me, part of the joy of cooking on a bakestone is that every item that comes off it will be a little bit different. Take Welsh cakes for example. Some will be an even golden brown while others with show a spectrum of well-done to just cooked. It’s a bit like making pancakes, with the first one always being a bit too thick or thin.

This also came to mind recently when I was invited along to Big River Bakery in Newcastle for a stottie making workshop. Stotties are traditional Newcastle bread rolls, and I got to grips with making them along with several other travel and food writers. Each stottie came out different but each tasted great.

Cooking at home shouldn’t come with rules and perfection – although you may perfect a recipe – because then it steps into the realm of the professional. It’s why I’m not a huge fan of supposed home-cook reality series. Good home cooking doesn’t have to be fancy or look beautiful. It needs to taste good and hopefully give you nourishment and some joy in both its preparation and eating. I love a tiny, really crunchy roast potato as much as the fluffy golden crispness of a ‘perfectly’ cooked one. I’ll happily eat a Welsh cake that’s a bit burnt – in fact, these were my Great Auntie Den’s favourites. So much food gets wasted in the pursuit of plated perfection, but in my kitchen the ideal lies in the imperfect, the irregular, the experiment and the leftover.

Well that’s my rant over, so I guess it’s time for me to dig out my bakestone – if only I could remember which box I put it in?!

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The Recipe

Leek tart

This recipe is based on a tarte tartin and was dreamt up following a conversation with my colleague Rachael. I love the concept of sweet and savoury together and for this I’ve used Welsh honey, sweet leeks and tangy goat’s cheese. It’s pretty easy and I was able to do it with a pan and a cake tin. It makes a lovely summer lunch or impressive party piece for a barbecue or picnic.

Ingredients

• 60g Welsh honey (I used the end of a jar of Snowdonia Welsh Wildflower Honey)

• 50g Welsh butter (I used Castle Dairies)

• 3 or 4 large leeks

• ½ tsp oregano (thyme would also be nice or any garden herb for that matter)

• Good pinch of Halen Môn sea salt

• 100g Welsh goat’s cheese (such as Pant-Ys-Gawn)

• 1 pack of ready-rolled puff pastry

• 1 egg, beaten

Method

1. First, thoroughly wash the leeks and then cut into 1 inch (3cm) rounds and place on some kitchen paper to absorb some of the moisture.

2. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/ Gas Mark 6.

3. In a saucepan, melt the butter and honey and allow to bubble for about 5 minutes, being careful that it doesn’t burn. It’s ready when it’s starting to change colour to a deep golden.

4. While that’s bubbling, cut out a large circle of the pastry so that it’s a bit bigger than the cake tin you’re using. I used an 8-inch tin. Don’t use a loose-bottomed one.

5. Tip the honey mixture into the bottom of the solid cake tin and gently swirl it over the base.

6. Place the leeks in tightly on top of the honey in their upright position so you can see the concentric circles, until the tin is full.

7. Place in the oven for 10 minutes.

8. Remove from the oven and sprinkle the top with oregano and the goat’s cheese, before laying over the pastry, and carefully tucking it in the sides of the tin. You can use the handle of a spoon or knife if you don’t have asbestos fingers.

9. Bake in the oven for about 35-40 minutes until the pastry is puffed up and golden. It’s a good idea to put it on top of a baking tray to catch any spillages that might happen as it’s cooking.

10. Let is sit for a few moments to cool slightly before inverting onto a plate. Best to use an oven glove to protect your hands from any escaping hot honey.

If you try it out, don’t forget to tag any photos with #mywelshkitchen

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The Playlist

To me, cooking and music go hand in hand, whether that’s singing at the top of your voice using a wooden spoon as a microphone while waiting for pasta to boil, or dancing around with the oven gloves on as the oven timer counts down. Here are this week’s ideas for your Welsh Kitchen playlist.

This issue’s jukebox is dedicated to the memory and legacy of the fabulous Bonnie Tyler. I remember meeting her backstage at the Brangwyn Hall in Swansea when I used to work for the graduation team at the university. She was being made an honorary fellow and she took time to speak to everyone. She was wearing the most magnificent purple outfit that if memory serves me right had a rhinestone or two on it. After being made a Doctor of Letters, she turned to the audience and shouted in her characteristic rasp, “I’m a doctor!” Sock it to us Bonnie!

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It’s wine time

I’ve got two great wine events to let you know about. Firstly, I’ll be hosting a tasting at the London Welsh Centre on 3 September in what I’ve called Last of the Summer Wine. We’ll be tasting some of my choices from the supermarkets for enjoying those late-summer nights.

Cardiff Wine Passport

Also, the Cardiff Wine Passport is back and has three new venues. If you’re new to the passport, it’s quite simple. You buy the passport which you trade it at six independent wine venues around the city for a glass of wine. There are some great wines on offer this year from some of my favourite restaurants and bars. The passport is valid for seven weeks, starting on 6 August 2026, on Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays only.

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From the archive